A Must Have Book

When looking for tid-bits to accompany my previous post on neckerchiefs, I discovered first a neat description of a carriage bag then what I would call a Must Read Book for anyone who sews any type of reproduction anything from the mid-nineteenth century.  This description happens to be in said book:

To Make Up Carriage Bags

Very nice frames are sold for these. They are of a stout calico on the outside, and a nice striped ditto inside, with a handkerchief pocket. The sides are of leather; and the upper of the frame and the handles are the same. The work should be one piece for both sides – the canvas, of cloth edges turned in at the sides, and sewed to the edges of the bag. At the top, the edge of the canvas must be laid under the leather, which is stitched down over it. The handles are merely tacked on. They must be removed for mounting, and afterwards carefully sewed down in the same places over the canvas. Cover all the seams, and the edges of the leather along the top, with a fine silk cord. Observe that the work must be made to fit the frame, not the latter to the work, as frames are made only in certain gradations of size, except to order; and what is call an out size, even if smaller, always more expensive.

I would love to have an illustration of the frame the author writes about. Depending on what that frame really looks like, I can picture a few different versions of this bag coming together.

Now on to this must read book.

If you have not read The Lady’s Dictionary of Needlework; A Complete Guide to all the Signs, Terms, and Contractions Used in Every Sort of Fancy Work with Illustrated Instructions for the Elementary Stitches, hop over to Google Books and download it. I am pretty certain I have stumbled on this book before while compiling shawl information, but I never scrolled cover to cover so to speak. I should have. This book is packed full of useful information – a glossary of material, stitches and oodles of how-tos. This is one I would very much like to see reproduced or at least reprinted so I could pull it from the shelf as needed. Lacking that, I foresee a trip to my printer sometime soon to see about printing up a copy for myself.

Clips of Domestic Economy – pt 7

 An Encyclopedia of Domestic Economy by Thomas Webster has an indepth section on servants from the perspective on one employing them. Within the section is this passage and chart I know some will find interesting. Please remember this applies to an English servant.

“In servants’ dress two thirds of the wages only should be spent. The remainder, left in the hands of their principal, or placed in saving’s banks to accumulate, may prove a means of comfort to them beyond comparison greater than the translent pleasure which a more expensive dress might give them. In the following tables will be found estimates sufficiently accurate to show, that with judgment in the choice of the materials, and a proper subordination of the inclination for dress to the means for obtaining it, a third part, or even more, of wages, may in most cases, be untouched, and yet the personal appearance of the servant not neglected thereby, but rather improved, inasmuch as consistency in dress is always one of the its most becoming attributes.

Table I – Wages 7l.7s

                                                                                      L              s              d

1 good cotton dress, at 8d                               0              7              8

2 common working gowns, at 6d           0              7              0

Linings for the dresses                                 0              2              0

4 petticoats                                                          0              8              0

Body linen                                                          0              4              6

Stockings (3 pairs)                                             0              6              0

Muslin for caps and handkerchiefs        0              6              0

Bonnet and trimmings                                 0              10            0

4 chequered aprons, 2 white ditto         0              6              0

A shawl                                                              0              12            0

3 pairs of shoes                                             0              12            0

2 pairs of gloves                                          0              1              0

Sundries                                                         0              10            0

                                                                            4              13            2

Table II Wages from 12L 12s upwards

3 gowns (making, &c)                            1              10            0

Petticoats                                                     0              12            0

Body linen                                                   0              6              0

4 pairs stockings                                     0              6              0

Aprons                                                           0              7              0

Caps, habit shirt, ribands, and gloves    1              0              0

2 bonnets and trimmings                       1              0              0

Shawl                                                           0              15            0

3 pairs of shoes                                      0              12            0

Sundries                                                       1              0              0

                                                                   L7            8              0

Clips of Domestic Economy – pt 6

The author discusses silverware, flatware and cutlery extensively with occasional illustration. Those areas are so very detailed, I will not attempt to choose what to clip out. Here is a list of the “Usualy articles in silver required to furnish the table”:

 

Cruets are just something I want to learn more about. So, I pulled this image of silver-plate to share:

Clips of Domestic Economy – pt 5

I had to switch to the 1852 version of An Encyclopedia of Domestic Economy by Thomas Webster because the 1845 version I downloaded was only half there. This edition was published in London instead of New York.

I know there has been recent discussion of glassware for the table. In that light, this illustration and description is quite handy:

“Glass Used as Table Furniture – The use of glass in furniture is too well known to require much illustration. We shall confine ourselves, therefore, to an enumeration of the  various articles in common use. Mirrors have already been mentioned for chandeliers and other holders for lights in Section on Lamps. Glass for the table consists of, decanters for the usual wines, a, fig. 496; ditto for claret, b; liquor bottles, r; water jugs, c, c; pickle glasses, d; finger cups, e; custard cups, d; cruet glasses, f, g, h, I; tumblers, k, l; wine-glasses of various kinds, m, n, o, including those of green glass; butter basins, p, q, s, salad basins, &c.

Clips of Domestic Economy – pt 4

 

Today from An Encyclopedia of Domestic Economy by Thomas Webster, published in 1845 in New York, we have some bed and bedding items.

One note –  Being written about 15 years prior, these pieces would not have been new in 1860 and in some areas could be seen as out-of-date.

There are quite a few beds shared in the book ranging from simple to draped or canopied to iron and fold-out beds.

 

I’m sure one of the most of interest will be this folding bed:

“The folding camp, or tressel bedstead, fig 414, is one of the cheapest made, and has the great convenience of being easily put aside to make room when folded, consisting merely of two frames connected by the sacking. When extended, it is kept open by the head-board, which has two pins that drop into holes in the side rails, with the addition of a foot-board, made in the same manner as the head-board; there is no better bedstead for men servants or young people; and being so moveable, they are easily kept clean, not requiring taking to pieces. They may be had complete for less than [ 1 pound]. If required, nothing would be easier than to add curtains, in the manner of the French bedstead. They are also made sometimes of iron.

Camp bedsteads, to fold in little room, are made sometimes of iron; but the best and most elegant are of hollow brass rods, which are particularly convenient for travelling by land or sea, and are occasionally useful in the house from being easily put away. Those of brass are about twice the price of iron ones. Couches are made on the same principle.”

 

In the bedroom section, this book details on several pages the types of materials used for bedding or mattresses. Starting on page 296, these include:

Feather beds stuffed with feathers – The author notes some people rub the inside of the ticking with bees wax or a combination of bees wax and soap to help decrease the dust connected with feather beds. He also says the ticking must be as close, thick and stout as possible. Feather beds are softer than the mattresses they often sit on, which follow.

Mattresses “are firmer kids of beds, usually placed under the feather beds, but sometimes preferred to the latter for sleeping upon, as being less soft, and not so relaxing. They consist of a bag of canvass or ticking stuffed with various materials; but as these are not intended to be moved or shaken, they are fixed in their places by packthread put through, and tufts fixed at equal distances: the edge or border of the mattress is formed square. The materials with which mattresses are filled are usually horsehair, wool, flock, millpuff (a kind of coarse wool), chaff, straw, ulva-marina, cocoanut fibre, or coils of elastic wire. Hay and chaff are occasionally employed.”

Descriptions of each are detailed by the author. He also discusses alternate beds being introduced – the French paillasse “a very thick mattress stuffed hard with drawn wheat straw”, an air bed of India rubber invented in 1813 and a “Dr. Arnott’s water bed” intended as invalid furniture.

Clips of Domestic Economy – pt 3

I am greatly enjoying An Encyclopedia of Domestic Economy by Thomas Webster, published in 1845 in New York. I hope you are enjoying the pieces I am sharing.

One note –  Being written about 15 years prior, these pieces would not have been new in 1860 and in some areas could be seen as out-of-date.

The book has several dressing tables and wash stands, some of which I really like.

 This portable water-closet is one I thought especially worth sharing:

“Portable water-closets are useful where fixed ones cannot be had, and in case of sickness; as they may be placed in a dressing-room, or even a bedroom. If ill constructed, they are a nuisance; butt we can recommend the following , patented by Wiss, near Charing Cross, London. Fig 454, a, a, is the cistern for water, surrounding the three sides of a box which holds the pan, b; the cistern is filled by lifting up a small lid, c, and pulling the handle of an engine, by which the water is forced into the pan through the washer. This water, by its weight, opens the hinged valve at the bottom of the pan, and carries the contents into a pail, e, placed beneath. This pail has a cover with a projection that dips into a groove containing a little water, that effectually prevents any effluvia from coming out. The pail can be removed to empty it. This apparatus many be made in a variety   of forms; as a seat, an arm-chair, a commode, settee, &c. The   same moveable box, with the cistern and pan, may be used without a pail, and be more complete, where there is the convenience of connecting it with a pipe to go into a drain or cesspool. In this case there is a curved tube, f, to be joined to the pipe, which, being always full of water up to the dotted line, stops any smell from ascending.

Clips of Domestic Economy – pt 2

 Today I have more items from An Encyclopedia of Domestic Economy by Thomas Webster, published in 1845 in New York.

One note –  Being written about 15 years prior, these pieces would not have been new in 1860 and in some areas could be seen as out-of-date.

When I first looked at these towel and wash stands in the bedroom section, I noticed fig 434 looked like what I had always thought of as a quilt stand. This is something I will need to look into better. My next thought was about how useful one of these would be at an event. I prefer to drape the clothing I’ve taken off to air out or in some cases dry out due to the weather being hot and humid or wet. I often end up draping my cloths over a chair. One of these would be so much more useful. After all that is what these are for.

“Towel and wash stands. 1234 – Towel and cloth airers. Fig 434 is the form at present most in fashion for towels. Fig. 435 is more convenient for airing clothes; from the mode in which the feet are fixed on, it will stand whether open or shut. Fig. 436 is still more convenient, as by means of a very simple hinge I may be made to fold backward, and in several different positions. Fig. 437 represents the hinge, which consists of only two strips of leather nailed on as in the woodcut: it may be made by any carpenter: there are four such hinges.”

Clips of Domestic Economy – pt 1

I’ve been reading through An Encyclopedia of Domestic Economy by Thomas Webster lately. Published in 1845 in New York this book is packed full of useful and interesting pieces of information. I thought I would share some of those I find either particularly interesting or potentially useful.

One note –  Being written about 15 years prior, these pieces would not have been new in 1860 and in some areas could be seen as out-of-date.

This box-stool is something I would love to duplicate either for use at home or an event. It is a box with the top padded for sitting. The inside has a grid pattern used for hanging caps from. The text says “Fig. 432 is a box-stool, having the top stuffed to sit on, while the inside may hold caps, or other articles of dress, pinned to the girt in the lid.”

 

Quite similar is this traveling box meant for caps or bonnets. “Traveling boxes, for caps or bonnets, have a frame with a narrow girth crossed within, as fig. 463, to the underside of the which the caps are pinned, so as not to touch the sides, or each other. Frills, laces, and light articles of that kind are fixed upon the upper side of this network. Care should be taken to carry the boxes always top uppermost, and the caps will arrive at their destination without the slightest injury. The outside of the box is covered with some water-proof substance, as painted canvas.”

 

While looking at pieces which store caps and bonnets, I want to share these parts of a wardrobe meant for storing bonnets and caps. “Fig. 455 represents one of the simplest and cheapest wardrobes, being a press with folding doors and sliding shelves. At the bottoms is a deep drawer for holding bonnets and caps; these are best placed upon bonnet-holders within the drawer, fig. 456, or hung on hooks fixed in the inside of the drawers, as in fig. 457.”

 

 

“Our Dictionary of Needlework”

 Have you ever stumbled across something and instantly thought “everyone should see this”? That is what happened when I scrolled over Peterson’s Magazine’s 1858 series called “Our Dictionary of Needlework”. The odd thing is I’ve gone through this edition countless times looking for shawls, hoods, needle-books, etc., yet it didn’t stand out until today.

So, of course I had to put the year long series into a single file for everyone…..

“Our Dictionary of Needlework” from Peterson’s 1858

If there is a video at the end of this post, it is an advertisement. My apologies for the inconvenience.

The Newest “Must Have” Books for Your Christmas List

Whether shopping for the perfect gift for someone special or making your own wish list, there are some great new books out this fall that ought to be on your Christmas list.

For the needle-worker, seamstress and quilter, there is Fanciful Utility: Victorian Sewing Cases and Needle-books by Anna Worden Bauersmith. This book shows step-by-step how to make an assortment of well researched sewing cases, housewifes and needle-books. Filled with templates and color photographs, this book is sure to keep the hands busy all winter long.

Everyone who dresses for the Civil War era will want Dressing the Victorian Civil War Lady: A Guidebook to Dressing the 1860s by Joy Melcher of the Civil War Lady. This book is filled with original photos, illustrations and tips for interpreters, reenactors, seamstresses and stage costumers.If you love to dance, you will have to have the West Side Soldiers Aide Society’s release of  The Ball-Room Manual of Belfast, Maine from 1863. The facsimile book has page after page of period contra dances acceptable to “the Young, as well as the Old Folks at Home”.

I was very excited to see this second volume available. The Way They Were: Dressed in 1860-1865, Volume 2 by Donna Abraham. Volume 2 takes a closer look at the details of the clothing women, men and children wore through newly published photographic images magnified for an indepth study.

The following books aren’t brand new, but if you don’t already have them, you should have them on your wish list:

Anyone making their own mid-century clothing, or just looking to understand it better should own The Dressmaker’s Guide by Elizabeth Stewart Clark.

Donna Abraham’s The Way They Were: Dressed in 1860-1865 is packed full of original CDV images. I just love this book as my copy is filled with notes and arrows.

What else is on my wish list? Well, I need to learn more about men’s clothing so I can make my husband a full set of civilian attire. (I also need to convince him this is a great idea.) With that in mind, on my wish list we find The Victorian Tailor by Jason Maclochlainn as well as Mr. Ruley’s digital version of Louis DeVere’s 1866 Handbook of Practical Cutting on the Centre Point System.