A shawl can be one of the most useful garments in your living history or Civil War reenacting wardrobe. You can wrap yourself up in a warm shawl on a chilly afternoon, bundle a young one up in the evening, or drape it over you to avoid a summer rain shower.
I suggest reading my upcoming book Paisley, Plaid and Purled. If you have access to past issues of the Citizen’s Companion or The Civil War Lady, please take time to read these articles:
“Summer Mantles and Shawls” by Carolann Schmitt in the August, 1996 edition of the Citizen’s Companion
“Shawls and Mixed Fabric” transcribed by Jill Giles Bailey from Godey’s in the June, 2004 edition of the Citizen’s Companion.
“Finding the Right Shawl” by Anna Worden in the February, 2007 edition of the Citizen’s Companion.
“The Shawl: An Article of Dress” by Anna Worden in the October, 2006 edition of the Citizen’s Companion.
“Victorian Shawls” by Lynn Bury in the #22 edition of the Civil War Lady.
It can be rather difficult deciding what shawl or shawls to buy. I hope this extended version of the above article “Finding the Right Shawl” will be of some help. I should start by saying there are many, many merchants around the world selling shawls online in a wide range of quality and price. I do not vouch for or negate the reputation or reliability of these sellers.
Let us first look at shawl size. Most shawls fit a within a standard size range:
- Square shawls should be in the range of 55 inches to 70 inches square with 64 inches square being standard.
- Long shawls are double squares, sometimes called plaids, which should be 55 inches wide by 110 inches long to 70 inches wide by 140 inches long with 64 inches wide by 128 inches long being the most common.
- Three-quarter shawls are 3/4ths the width and 3/4ths length of a standard double square shawl. A three-quarter shawl would be 48 inches wide by 96 inches long.
- Scarves are much longer than they are wide. A shawl 3 feet by 9 feet would be considered a scarf. These were more popular earlier in the 19th century.
The exceptions to these standard sizes include lace, knit or crochet shawls.
Next, consider weight. One of the mistakes I observe is the use of wool which is more of a blanket weight than a shawl weight. The weight of fabric is determined in ounces per linear yard. If you want to think of wool weights in terms of modern suit weights, a tropical weight is the lightest and regular is generally the fabric worn for a winter suit.
Types of Shawls:
Wool Woven Shawls Paisley Family Kashmir Scotch Paisley French Paisley type Border Paisleys ”Plaid” – Whole plaid, Checks, Border Plaids Scotch Plaid American Plaids Fabric Shawls Printed Pavlavo Pasad Shawls Sheer Shawls Muslin shawls Grenedine & Barege Silk Silk Embroidered China Crape Lace Shawls Chantilly Lace Shawls Point de Gaze & Argentan Lace Other lace shawls Crochet and Knitted Shawls Shetland Shawls Orenburg Lace Shawls
Kashmir, Asianic Paisley and Paisley-type Shawls
Fibers, weave and size: These shawls should ideally be made of hair brushed from the Kashmir/cashmere goat or from a wool and silk blend. The silk should be the warp or blended into the wool in a small amount. Avoid shawls with a rayon or acetate blended with the wool. Original Kashmirs are very light weight because of the tapestry twill weave. I have yet to be able to compare the weights of original and new. Look for sizes around 64 inches square or 64×128 inches as a double square.
Design: When looking for an Asianic shawl, look for a strong cone motif. The cone motifs should radiate out from a center field of black, white or red. These radiating motives create a star or spoked flower appearance from a distance. The spokes should be connected with ribbon like borders consisting of small floral motives. By our era a newer shawl would have a smallish center. But, the higher cost of these shawls along with their durability means it would not be unlikely for a grown woman to have a shawl with a larger center from her youth. The outer border can be on two or four sides. This borer should be comprised of smaller designs brought together in the border. Kashmir borders will have more independent blocks of design while French borders will visually entwine each block with it’s neighbor.
Two other design options include the striped shawl and the border shawl.
Where to look: There are some nice shawls coming out of India. Many of these are available on online and via Ebay for various prices. When doing an online search use “Paisley Shawl” or “Cashmere Shawl” or “Antique Shawl” for your key words.
(note: I have read several 1990′s news stories regarding the skinning of goats for their under-coat hair, which is used to make shawls, thus endagering the goats. While shopping be sure to find a merchant you are confidant in.)
Woven shawls
Fibers, weave and size: Wool or wool/silk blends. These should also be 64 inches square or 64 inches by 128 double square. A shawl relatively near these dimensions will look nice. The weave should be a tight plain or twill weave. The shawl can range from light weight to rather heavy if hand-woven.
Design : Look for solids, checks, plaids (preferably symmetrical) stripes and border plaids.
Where to look: This is a type of shawl you can make yourself. Many Museums offer weaving classes thru-out the year. You can also make a fabric shawl from woven wool lengths. You will need a dress weight to coat weight wool rather than a heavy weight in a 54 inch to 60 inch width. Plain woven fabric and plaid woven fabrics work well. The yardage can fringed on the end by unravelling the ends by hand. To calculate your yardage, decide if you want a square or double square shawl and how long you wish your fringe to be on the ends. For a square shawl, purchase the width of the fabric plus 6 to 12 inches for fringe. For example: if you want a double square shawl out of 60 inch wide fabric purchase 130 inches for a 120 inch shawl with 5 inch fringe. (see the article on fringing a shawl)
Printed shawls
Fibers, weave and size: Printed shawls come in wool, cotton and blends of wool, silk and cotton. Ideally, you would find a 64 inch square shawl, but the common 55 inch square shawl is not bad.
Design: Printed shawls vary by region. Look for period motifs and borders.
Where to look: The Russian Pavlovo Posad company still makes printed shawls in their 19th century designs. There are several sellers listing these on ebay and more on the web. I am still trying to find a direct link to the company. I may have to settle with a regular address and phone number. Use “Pavlovo Shawls” or “Russian Shawls” for your internet search.
Sheer Shawls – Muslin Shawls, Grenadine & Barege
Fibers, weave and size: I still have not found sheer shawls that I like. These were silk, wool or cotton. They frequently had a plain central field and a stripe border creating a plaid motif.
Lawn, Gauze, Voile, Silk Organza & Batiste fabrics can be used to make a sheer shawl. The edges would need to be hand finished with a rolled hem. This isn’t what original shawls have though. You may want to starch the fabric as well. You can add tucks to the border or ribbon to the border or edge.
Design:: Plain, woven plaids, woven checks, woven border plaids.
Where to look: – Online fabric merchants including Exclusive Silks and Fashion Fabric Club
Silk Shawls
Fibers, weave and size: I have not yet found the ideal silk shawl. Thai Silks has larger white shawls in their scarf section. These are a little smaller than ideal, but may suit your needs.
To make your own shawl, you want a durable silk, in the 64inch square range, no slubs with or without fringing. Look for a taffeta, china or habotai silk. Do not use satin. I have seen solid color, shot (or changable silk) and patterned silk shawls. A couple of the India, China and Thai merchants sell nice silk shawls. I tend to think play it safe for silk shawls and go for simple. Also, many list as silk but are selling Viscose.
Design:: If you want to embroider your shawl, I highly suggest looking extensively at originals.
Embroidered China Crape
There are some fabulously beautiful embroidered shawls out there… but only a few designs are suitable. I occasionally pick through ebay to see what is out there. It is rare I find something that meets size, design, quality and fiber standards. But it is possible.
http://www.qualinsilk.com/servlet/the-85/Silk-Shawl–dsh–Hand/Detail Has a few that I like. These cost in the $180 area.
http://raspberryberet.com/xlmantons.html I was surprised to find there are a couple shawls I like on the flamanco sites. These are in the $200+ for the larger shawls and $169 for the smaller piano shawls.
Lace Shawls
Sadly, every modern lace shawl I have seen is a synthetic. I may not have found the right maker. I suspect the prices may be quite high.
Crochet and Knitted Shawls
Great thing about these is you can make them your own. There are several patterns available in magazines and guide books. Many of these patterns are available digitally through Accessible Archives and online from various sites.
If you are purchasing a shawl, be sure to ask where the pattern design came from and what fibers the shawl is made out of. The shawl patterns above are worked in wool or silk.
Patterns in Godey’s Lady’s Book:
May, 1848 page 305 – Shetland shawl in crochet silk
November 1859 page 392 – Netted shawl in Berlin wool
August, 1862 page 186 – Biarritz shawl in crochet wool
December, 1862 page 537 – Knitted under-shawl in wool
November 1864 – Winter shawl, in plain knitting
January, 1865 page 88 – Crochet shawl
Patterns in Peterson’s Magazine
March, 1864 page 230 – Crochet Sontag-Shawl Pattern
1859 – Summer shawl in crochet
1866 – Zephyr Shawl in crochet
Available at www.gutenberg.com:
Beeton’s Book of Needlework (Great Britain, 1870 by Ward, Lock and Tyler.
Illustrations 346 to 348 Knitted shawl in Shetland wool
Orenburg Lace Shawls
Fibers, weave and size – These should be 100% wool
Design – See originals
Where to look: – These are available from the same places the Pavlavo shawls are available. But not all are 100% wool. These should be square and very, very fine. The idea is they could fit through a wedding band. Most of the ones I see listed on Ebay don’t look like they have been blocked (set to the square shape.)
Shawl Terms
Border Pattern
Pattern that is predominantly in the border area around the field. This pattern is very visible when worn in a triangle over the shoulders.
Cashmire
French word for shawls with the pine pattern both of Oriental and European origin.
Chenille Shawl
A shawl of Paisley, Scotland invention with a comprised of tufted silk, wool or cotton. This shawl was briefly fashionable in the 1820s but was un-washable. (Reilly, p.34)
Damask Shawl
Reversible pattern with alternating colors on opposite sides made with a different color warp and weft. (Reilly p.34)
Diagonal Shawl
Square crepe shawls with two different embroidered designs on opposite triangular halves. (Worth p. 52)
Kashmir
1. Providence in India.
2. Shawl made by weavers in the Kashmir.
Kirking Shawl
A white centered shawl given as a wedding gift to be worn to church the first Sunday after the wedding.
Medallions
Motive combinations located in corners, ends or centers of a shawl.
Paisley
1. The town of Paisley in Scotland.
2. The shawl with the cone or pine motif made in Paisley.
3. The individual design of a single pine or cone motif.
4. Overall design comprised of multiple pine motives.
Plaid
1. Rectangular, double square shawl that came into fashion in the 1840s with the crinoline skirt. “A new size of shawl, called the plaid, was produced.”(Reilly, p8.)
2. Tartan based design of alternating warp and weft threads.
Pine motive or Cone motive
Basic flower design surrounded by a border in a tear shape . This is the design we have come to identify as the “paisley”. In India it was call “Buta” meaning “flower”. Kashmir designs tend to have a short, simple, plump pine while European designs became more elongated and stylized.
Point Shawl
A triangular half shawl; generally a shawl of lace, knit or domestic make. Some shawls are described as single, double or triple point.
Reversible Shawl
A woven paisley type shawl with the same design on both sides. Not being made until 1865.
Standard nineteenth century shawl dimensions
“The long shawls being more esteemed than the square ones, and considered articles of luxury, it is by no means unusual for dealers to cut the former in two, in order to evade the higher duty, and to have the two halves fine-drawn together afterwards.” (Scientific American, December, 7 1850).
Scarf or Stole Shawl – Primarily ornamental – 9 feet x 20 inches
Square Shawl – Up to 6 feet x 6 feet
Handkerchief Shawls – 3 feet x 3 feet (called so due to customs fees)
Plaid Shawl or Long Shawl or Double Square Shawl – 10 feet x 5 feet
Three-quarter Plaid Shawl – 8 feet x 4 feet
Turn-over Shawl
A shawl that when folded in a triangle, shows all four finished borders. This is done by attaching 2 borders on the right side and 2 on the wrong side.
Zebra-Stripe Shawl
A striped shawl with a floral or paisley motive in the stripes, which was fashionable throughout the 1800s. (Reilly p. 36)
Examples of Shawls
Paisley family shawl, possibly Scottish
Paisley family shawl, possibly Scottish
Paisley family shawl, possibly French
Red Wool Shawl
Pavlavo Pasad Shawl
Green Plaid Wool Shawl with detail
Golden yellow plaid shawl with detail
Wow is all I can say.
The shawl’s are absolutely beautiful.
Thank you for you kindness in sharing and helping others with your blog, it has already become one of my favorites.
Margie
I have just discovered this site, courtesy of a friend. I would love to see “How to Fringe A Shawl” come back — the link appears to have gone away.
I love Anna’s site!
Susan,
Thank you for the compliment and pointing out the link isn’t working. It should be fixed now. Here is the direct url:
http://annaworden.wordpress.com/welcome/shawls-page/fringing-shawls/
Hi, I have a question about shawls. I have a piece of plaid wool that is 60″ wide by 4 yards. I would like to make it into a shawl, but I would like it to be bigger than 60″ square if I fold it into a triangle. Did the wool shawls ever have two pieces sewn together to make a bigger square? Or would I be better off making a rectangular shawl (twice as long as wide). Also, how are the long shawls worn? Do you wrap them around yourself several times? I saw on your website that some shawls were 10′ long. Thank you!!! p.s. I ordered your pattern for the silk bonnet (I’m actually using a thing woold on the outside, cotton on the inside, with a little velvet right around the face). I am at the quilting stage and wanted to know if these bonnets would have ever been machine quilted or should I hand quilt it?
Hi,
You can have a shawl larger than 60″ square. I have seen domestically made shawls with silk borders. That would be an option to give you a larger shawl without a seam. Another border option would be a paisley motif border, if you could find one.
You can make a double shawl, a rectangle. To wear it, fold it in half into a square then into a triangle. It would give you four layers of shawl.
Thank you for ordering the hood pattern. Both hand and machine quilting are acceptable.
Anna