A Year in Millinery Fashion – 1864

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Left– White uncut velvet bonnet, with a falling crown of purple velvet, and trimmed with fern leaves.

Right  – Bonnet of white silk, trimmed with lace and crimson carnations (Godey’s, January, 1864)

Beginning the year, we already see the trend of using trim to add height to the bonnets at the tip of the brim. In the image on the left we see not only height, but a projection forward as well. This projection of the “spoon” as we often call it, has varied in the previous years. In ’64, we will see it move forward, then begin to drop to the top of the head allowing the trims on top to do all the work for height. The fern leaves on this bonnet are part of a movement for leaves and grasses you will see throughout the year. The line of the purple velvet, dropping from atop the crown downward, is also the beginning of this line which will extend from the top of the high top brim, flowing down to beyond where we have previously seen the bavolet. Note in the bonnet on the right, we still have a bavolet, in this case in a lace, topped with carnations.

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