A Year in Millinery Fashion – 1864

Round hats are now very generally adopted. Some of the prettiest we have seen were in cuir-colored straw trimmed with velvet and feathers to match. Others were of chip, straw, and imitation Leghorn, elaborately trimmed with spun glass, shells, plaid velvet, and feathers. Veils, or rather scarfs, of white or black lace, are frequently looped at the side of the hat, and fall as a streamer at the back. The hats we have seen were not as high and pointed as those of last season. The brim fits rather closely to the face, and the back of the brim droops, and is much longer than the front.

We noticed some very pretty hats trimmed with bands and loops of velvet in front, and a pointed cape of velvet edged with lace covering the brim at the back.

Little girls are wearing half gypsies of straw. These are rather pointed in front, flare much at the sides to display a full cap of lace and ribbons, and at the back turn up like a turban. Cased silk bonnets with inimitable muslin and lace crowns, trimmed with the lightest of feathers, are also among the Spring costumes for little girls. Muslin and lace caps of every description are worn, they are generally of the Marie Stuart shape, with quite deep capes at the back. They are highly trimmed with ribbons, and frequently a tiny bunch of bright flowers is nestled among the soft lace on one side.

Mask veils are altogether worn. That is, the veil is drawn closely over the face, and fastened on top of the bonnet or hat with an insect pin. It is, however, difficult to arrange an ordinary veil in the mask style, on the small turban hats now so much worn by young ladies. We would therefore recommend the veil manufactured for the purpose, and just introduced by G. W. Vogel, of 1016 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia. These veils are a little over a quarter yard wide, perfectly  straight, and just sufficiently long enough to fit round the hat. For the Spanish hat there is another veil, which is decidedly novel. This has a hole in the centre, which passes over the crown of the hat; round this is a beading in which the elastic is run. The veil is pointed in front, and at the back, while the sides are shallow.

(Godey’s, June 1864)

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