Because it is that time of year for a tasty, even though it is bad for us, doughnut…..From Moore’s Rural New-Yorker in Rochester, NY
June 18th, 1864
It seems very strange that women don’t study culinary arts and sciences more thoroughly when they are the levers that move the world. Women, if they choose, can lead their lords whitersoever they will, yet few understand that a good dinner is a powerful aid. “A contented mind and a satisfied stomach go together,” said a great philosopher the other day.
Among the various articles of food that claim the attention of a successful cook, the highest in importance is the one under consideration; no wise woman will omit doughnuts, or trust their preparation to and inexperienced hand. Bread, biscuits, muffins, waffles – they are good in their several places, but what are they compared to doughnuts – the quintessence of the whole tea table, blending subtly together the nourishing qualities of the “staff of life” and the sweetness of delicacy of the entire cake tribe. They fill the place of many a dyspeptic dish, do away with unwholesome sweetmeats and pastry, substituting instead their own unrivalled excellence. Imagine anything more grateful than their spice fragrance when the crisp, golden-brown lies in flakes dames of old knew nothing of their moral influence?
Doughnuts should not be eaten alone, pickles and cheese should keep them company always; not pickled peaches, apples, or pears, not cherrier, olives, or walnuts, but the small, green cucumber, prepared in no common way, but after the recipe found years ago in this corner of the Rural.
Then the cheese should be judiciously selected for one of poor quality would spoil doughnuts. It should not be one that falls off in white tough crumbs beneath the knife, dry and tasteless; nor the reddish yellow Herkimer, of doubtful age; nor the brown-sided Ohio, with its sharp strong flavor; but let it be one innocent of the press, whose creamy richness never departed under the torturing screw. It should be smooth at the bottom, tampering gently upward after the manner of a pine-apple; of a pale golden hue, soft of substance and delicious to the taste. Then, with it triangular pieces upon one side, and the good flint pickles upon the other, the doughnuts will certainly meet with favor. Dore Hamilton. April 1, 1864.