NB Sewing Journal -The Information Gathering Stage

You know the saying “the more you know, the more you know you don’t know?” Well, that certainly applies to my Regency learning curve. This morning I awoke with a long list of questions. But first, I should back up to say I am calling this an information gathering stage rather than a reseach stage because with so much information and so little time, I don’t feel this is proper research.

On to the clothing questions I need to find the answers to. I’ll seperate these in “his clothes” and “her clothes”.

His Clothes

  • What year did this waist seam on the coat come in?
  • What is the evolution of the shape of the front, sorta waist line down into the tails? (I’m seeing 4 different versions.)
  • Collars… 4″, is this on both the coat and waistcoat?
  • Is there a significance in the the width between the button rows for occasion or material?
  • Is that side seam on the waist coat straight like it appears in some?
  • How much of a difference should be seen between the coat front length and waistcoat front length? I was guessing 2-3 inches. Then I saw some maniquin displays with much more space.
  • Where should the coat waist land, natural waist or just above natural waist.
  • Pants…. I still have the plaid question. Is it appropriate for this occasion? What would be my best replacement on a budget? the slightly heavy cream wool I have? a narrow wale corduroy? a twill cotton?
  • White stockings…. is it awful to ask him to wear one of my pairs?
  • Am I correct that stripes tend to go vertically or horizontally on waistcoats? I think I just saw one diagonal.
  • Is there a formality difference in pocket construction on waistcoats? Does it matter?
  • What are the overall fabric formality guidelines?

Her Clothes

  • With such a small bodice, where do I stuff all the fabric from the chemise if I do a straight cut chemise? Should I just do a lower cut yoked chemise?
  • Should my shoulder straps on my stays be attached or not? I think I’m seeing both. If I attach them, there should be less bulk. But, does this make wearing difficult?
  • I’ve seen bodiced pettis and pettis with straps. This just seems to add to the fabric under the bodice. What other methods keep the petti up at the ribcage? Did they button it to the corset? Maybe the straps are the best direction.
  • Does my petticoat go over or under the little tail on my short stays? I’m picturing bumroll, tail, petticoat or petti, bumroll, tail.
  • What are acceptable closures? I’m seeing ties and small buttons on the drop/bibfront bodices. Are hooks & eyes acceptable as well? For a cross-over bodice, I can figure out buttons if need be.

I’m sure there will be more to add to my list….. Is it odd that I find this part fun?

Netherfield Ball!

The event I’ve been planning and sewing for is none other than GCVM’s Netherfield Ball! The museum is recognizing the 200th anniversary of Pride and Prejudice by throwing this ball to be held in their beautiful Grand Gallery. Part of newly renovated Wehle Gallery, the grand gallery is a stunning location with its glowing hardwood floors and gorgeous red walls. What an ideal location for a ball!

I’m just a bit excited. Okay, I’m more than a bit excited.

I’ve added a Pinterest board to collect my thoughts on.

Here is a sketch of where I am going with my dress. I’ll be draping that once I have the corset and unders finished.

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As soon as books arrive, I can start drafting Dan’s clothes. I ordered a blue on white stripe for his waistcoat. Fingers crossed everything looks good together. If not…. um, different pants may be in order.

A Huge “Thank You!” to those of you who have been helping and pointing pieces out to me.

Published in: on March 6, 2013 at 11:05 am  Comments (4)  
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A Whole New Sewing Plan

In light of a uber-awesome event, which I will not name until I have our tickets purchased due to the limited number, all sewing has been rearranged. There is now a new sewing list with fabric being rededicated. All of this must be sewn, change that, must be researched, draped and sewn in the next 3 months.

For Dan –

  • Regency pants  (plaid with some blue wool)
  • Regency waistcoat (Ummmm????)
  • Regency frock coat or formal coat – must find out which is which, and what is what on this (Dark blue wool )
  • Regency shirt? (white cotton)
  • Figure out what to do about headwear and footwear.

For Me –

  • Regency corset (which was draped and patterned for me a year ago. Talk about a kick in the bottom to get working on it.)
  • Regency under-everything: chemise, petticoat….
  • Regency dress – to be made out of the vintage sari I was going to use for the court dress.
  • Dance slippers…
  • Hair… um… something….
  • do I need new gloves???

Here are the fabrics I’m planning on. The sari has a large empty area as well as a wide panel of the gold design. The gold is very stiff. The plaid wool has a bit of texture to it. I think it will be comfy for him.
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Here is a better look at the wool.
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This all said, I am very, very new to the Regency era of clothing. I’ve worn poor examples of the dresses and have one sad mock-up from a decade ago. So, I’m starting from scratch here. I am open, very open, to a reading list whether it be articles, books, tutorials, what have you. Send them my way!!!

My biggest learning hurdles are the different shape in sleeve for my dress along with the whole construction and shaping of Dan’s coat plus his pants. Honestly, with his coat and waistcoat if someone were to specifically say ” make this”, it would help narrow my focus down while aiding my learning curve.