Godey’s, November 1856
How To Make a Bonnet and Cap.
Drawn Bonnets.—Have a plain willow shape ready, the size and pattern you wish your bonnet to be; measure round the edge, and put a pencil mark to denote half of the bonnet; measure your silk, or whatever material you are going to make your bonnet out of, on the edge of the shape, and let it be five inches longer to allow for fullness. This quantity is quite sufficient. Measure your material selvage way, regulate the edge of the bonnet very nicely; the fullness must be even, the same as putting on a shirt collar, and neat stitches are required. In drawn bonnet-making, do not cut your sewing silk; wind it, and have your needlefuls the length of the silk or material you are going to run; do not fasten off your silk at the end of the runner, as it requires drawing up before the bonnet is finished; halve the material of your bonnet, before you begin to run with white cotton, all the way down; when you have done the tucks in your bonnet material, place the silk, or anything else you may be making in a bonnet of, on the willow shape, and cut a small piece out at the ears to shape it like the willow shapes; never mind fastening off your ends of silk—they will be all right before you finish your bonnet. The tucks in the silk are to be run just as you would a petticoat or a child’s frock. Four or five are enough. When your bonnet is run, and ready to put on the shape, it ought to measure seven or eight inches deep, according to the wearer. Old persons generally require a larger bonnet than young people. Try you hand in making a bonnet in a piece of book muslin or something common at first. The size of the tucks varies according to the taste of fashion a little. They are now worn all sizes. Some bonnets have only three tucks with wires in them, others five. Before you get forward in your running, try the wire you are going to use, “and do not do what is too often done” – run the tucks, and then find the wire will not do. The wire had always better be too small than too large; in fact, the runners must be loose on your wire. The cane or whalebone for drawn bonnets I have never seen used. A wire, covered with cotton, is to be bought any size you wish. The wire must be very hard and firm for the edge, and soft and pliable for all the rest of your bonnet. Attend to this, or you will make people’s heads ache. I would not give two pence for the prettiest bonnet ever turned out if the wires were not light and soft. All these things only require attention; for little things I have no doubt some of my young readers think them in comparison to the look of a bonnet. Many persons can tell you what part of town a bonnet has been made in simply by the foundation—I mean the wires and supports of the bonnet. If you wish to make a drawn bonnet of two colors or two pieces join them together before you begin; and now be careful, joining the work strong; and let the tuck you put in hid where it is joined, not because you wish anyone to think it not joined, but for neatness. When you have run the tucks in your bonnet, before you begin to put in your wires, cut the piece of silk that at the ends the exact shape of your pattern-frame; this after the wires are to be put in; and now place the silk on half of the willow shape;tack the silk, not the wire is in, on the shape, all around the edge of the bonnet; now pull your wires to the right size, that is, exactly like the shape; having done this, now fasten the short wires that come down at the ears to the pieces of chip and wire that you have run through the edge of the bonnet.
When the wire that goes in the edge of your bonnet must go quite round the back, and cross a little. It is almost the whole support of your bonnet. When the wires are all firmly fastened, you may now draw up your sewing-silk that is in the tucks. Be careful not to break them. You will find our bonnet looking better for being run well, and then drawn tight. All this must be done before you take your drawn bonnet off the willow frame. You will require five supports got ready to put in. They must be silk wire, rather firm, and the color of your bonnet. They should be cut one inch longer than the bonnet, so as to allow a small piece to be turned down, top and bottom. Put one piece in the middle of your bonnet, and the remaining four at equal distances. These wires are called support’s, as they help to keep the bonnet in shape. Having reached so far with your bonnet, bind all round the back from ear to ear, and bow put on our curtain. In putting on your curtain, draw the thread at the top to the size of ten inches, and make this firm; place half your curtain to the half of the back of your bonnet; now sew it on; mid the fullness is equal.
If you wish to make a drawn bonnet with puffs, begin the bonnet just in the same way. When you have made a runner or tuck, push up a little of your silk; a very little will do. You require a piece of net underneath your silk. This net must be the size of the piece of the silk. When you turn down the first hem, put the net inside, and run it with the silk. The use of this piece of net is that you may full your silk on it, keeping the net plain. These kind of bonnets require a lining; it should be a little full. Always bear in mind that two or three inches are a good deal of fullness in millinery, in silk, net , or anything else. When you put linings in any bonnet, puff net on the lining before you put it on the bonnet. If you put more than one inch inside your bonnet, put it on the lining before you put the lining in. The bonnet is lined after the outside is done so as to keep it as fresh as possible.