Netherfield Ball

I’ve had a few people ask for photos. So, I want to get the few I have up asap. I’ll add some text later.

As a summary – Had a lovely time. I slid all over the place. Finally got to waltz with my husband for the first time since Fort Stanton. Barb’s shawl to the rescue.

Netherfield Ball

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DanNetherfield Ball Dan NB Dan 1

 

Me

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The Collar, aka “where I’m stuck”

Okay, folks…. help.
I understand the quilting the layers together part. What I don’t get is how these 4 pieces are sewn together. I figure the top two are sewn together and the bottom two are sewn together at the centers. After that, I’m just puzzled
If I had 4 of the top pieces, that would make more sense to me. But, the directions said to cut 2 and 2. (I should mention there are only little scraps left.)
Help?

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Published in: on June 13, 2013 at 5:23 am  Comments (1)  
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NB Sewing Journal – Underpinnings Finished

I finished my shift/chemise, stays and bodiced petticoat last night. The last button-hole was finished as bedtime settled in. As soon as I was home from work today, I was able to try everything on. 🙂  This evening is test night to make sure everything fits and is comfortable. I really wanted to share photos. But, as soon as I got my chemise and stays on, my phone’s battery died. So, a summary instead. Everything is quite comfortable. There isn’t much I can say about the chemise, other than it draws up quite nicely. The stays are a comfort level that may just threaten my mid-century clothes to banishment. Really. This one is that comfortable even with the “shelf.” I figure I’m giving them quite the wearing test as I’m curled up on the couch. It is so nice to have this support without having a large underwire digging into my side. I don’t have as much “separate” as I know is ideal. I’ll be more able to achieve that with a transitional pair for my next set. Yes, I’ve already decided there will be more of this clothing. (see below) Now, the bodiced petti…. can we say “C.O.M.F.Y.”? I did a gored skirt with a 84″ hem. LOVE it. This skirt is so very comfortable.

Adjustments:

– I still need to solve the lacing problem. I couldn’t get the 1/4″ round cord through. Right now I have crochet cotton laced in with a bodkin. Either, I need to find a strong, narrow lace I can use with the bodkin or I need to make the holes bigger.
– The waist of the bodiced petti needs to come in about an inch, maybe two, to fit more snuggly. I don’t think it should be loose. I need to decide between a drawstring, darts in the bodice front or taking it out of the sides. So, the question would be – Did they use darts?

Next steps:

– Decide between drafting and draping my bodice. With the duct tape dummy oops, this is a looming decision.
– Drape or draft a toile of my bodice.
– Get Dan’s measurements and do some rough sketches of his clothing.

You know how I mentioned more clothes above? Well, I keep dreaming up dress ideas for the uber-awesome white and green sheer a truely lovely someone sent me. I also started thinking up clothes for Lily.

Published in: on March 19, 2013 at 4:36 pm  Comments (3)  
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NB Sewing Journal – Progress update

As last week was filled with posts and this one not so much, I figure I should provide an update.

This week has been much slower going, or so it feels. A combination of time-change-lag, migraine and unwanted four-legged house guest have greatly depleted my sewing and reading time. I haven’t even managed to get a friend’s dress hemmed yet. (This will be done by tomorrow night.) There are small steps forward.

  • Dan’s waistcoat fabric arrived yesterday. It is nice. Not very formal or over the top. But it will make a nice waistcoat. I think the blues will go well together.
  • I finally finished my corset last night. There seemed to be much more between ‘together’ and ‘finished’ for this one than my mid-century ones, even though these are much tinier. Go figure. I do need to find a better, thinner lace. My hand-sewn eyelets are so much smaller than the metal ones.
  • I’ve been slowly working through the books from the previous post. I’m just convinced I need more hours in the day.
  • This weekend, I plan to get the chemise/shift and petticoat done as well as draping a muslin of the bodice. (This is all after hemming the above mentioned dress.) While it is so much easier to do a straight paneled petticoat, I may do a gored petti to minimize the bulk at the top. Time permitting, I would like to get Dan to stand for all his measurements as well.
Published in: on March 14, 2013 at 7:39 am  Comments (2)  
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NB Sewing Journal – Tonight’s Reading

Two books arrived to aide in the planning & sewing of Dan’s clothing. On the left, Jason Maclochlainn’s The Victorian Tailor arrived via the postal man. On the right, Norah Waugh’s The Cut of Men’s Clothes arrived via interlibrary loan.

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The latter seems to be a nice summary of three centuries. It looks like it will give me an over view of the progression/evolution of men’s clothing. I see one diagram of a dress coat from the 1820s that may or may not b of use. The other diagrams are later.
The first book at first look, looks to be a pleasing purchase. Flipping through though, this is definitally an “Oh, wow!” Book. I am so glad I bought it. If it isn’t the strongest choice for this project, it will be very helpful alongside DeVeer’s for a mid-century civilian outfit for Dan. (I’m picturing a linen sacque or frock.) I don’t know if I’m more excited by his decade by decade breakdown of garments or the explaination of the stitches of a tailor and contruction. I am going to Love this book!

Published in: on March 11, 2013 at 3:45 pm  Leave a Comment  
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NB Sewing Journal -The Information Gathering Stage

You know the saying “the more you know, the more you know you don’t know?” Well, that certainly applies to my Regency learning curve. This morning I awoke with a long list of questions. But first, I should back up to say I am calling this an information gathering stage rather than a reseach stage because with so much information and so little time, I don’t feel this is proper research.

On to the clothing questions I need to find the answers to. I’ll seperate these in “his clothes” and “her clothes”.

His Clothes

  • What year did this waist seam on the coat come in?
  • What is the evolution of the shape of the front, sorta waist line down into the tails? (I’m seeing 4 different versions.)
  • Collars… 4″, is this on both the coat and waistcoat?
  • Is there a significance in the the width between the button rows for occasion or material?
  • Is that side seam on the waist coat straight like it appears in some?
  • How much of a difference should be seen between the coat front length and waistcoat front length? I was guessing 2-3 inches. Then I saw some maniquin displays with much more space.
  • Where should the coat waist land, natural waist or just above natural waist.
  • Pants…. I still have the plaid question. Is it appropriate for this occasion? What would be my best replacement on a budget? the slightly heavy cream wool I have? a narrow wale corduroy? a twill cotton?
  • White stockings…. is it awful to ask him to wear one of my pairs?
  • Am I correct that stripes tend to go vertically or horizontally on waistcoats? I think I just saw one diagonal.
  • Is there a formality difference in pocket construction on waistcoats? Does it matter?
  • What are the overall fabric formality guidelines?

Her Clothes

  • With such a small bodice, where do I stuff all the fabric from the chemise if I do a straight cut chemise? Should I just do a lower cut yoked chemise?
  • Should my shoulder straps on my stays be attached or not? I think I’m seeing both. If I attach them, there should be less bulk. But, does this make wearing difficult?
  • I’ve seen bodiced pettis and pettis with straps. This just seems to add to the fabric under the bodice. What other methods keep the petti up at the ribcage? Did they button it to the corset? Maybe the straps are the best direction.
  • Does my petticoat go over or under the little tail on my short stays? I’m picturing bumroll, tail, petticoat or petti, bumroll, tail.
  • What are acceptable closures? I’m seeing ties and small buttons on the drop/bibfront bodices. Are hooks & eyes acceptable as well? For a cross-over bodice, I can figure out buttons if need be.

I’m sure there will be more to add to my list….. Is it odd that I find this part fun?

Netherfield Ball!

The event I’ve been planning and sewing for is none other than GCVM’s Netherfield Ball! The museum is recognizing the 200th anniversary of Pride and Prejudice by throwing this ball to be held in their beautiful Grand Gallery. Part of newly renovated Wehle Gallery, the grand gallery is a stunning location with its glowing hardwood floors and gorgeous red walls. What an ideal location for a ball!

I’m just a bit excited. Okay, I’m more than a bit excited.

I’ve added a Pinterest board to collect my thoughts on.

Here is a sketch of where I am going with my dress. I’ll be draping that once I have the corset and unders finished.

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As soon as books arrive, I can start drafting Dan’s clothes. I ordered a blue on white stripe for his waistcoat. Fingers crossed everything looks good together. If not…. um, different pants may be in order.

A Huge “Thank You!” to those of you who have been helping and pointing pieces out to me.

Published in: on March 6, 2013 at 11:05 am  Comments (4)  
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A Whole New Sewing Plan

In light of a uber-awesome event, which I will not name until I have our tickets purchased due to the limited number, all sewing has been rearranged. There is now a new sewing list with fabric being rededicated. All of this must be sewn, change that, must be researched, draped and sewn in the next 3 months.

For Dan –

  • Regency pants  (plaid with some blue wool)
  • Regency waistcoat (Ummmm????)
  • Regency frock coat or formal coat – must find out which is which, and what is what on this (Dark blue wool )
  • Regency shirt? (white cotton)
  • Figure out what to do about headwear and footwear.

For Me –

  • Regency corset (which was draped and patterned for me a year ago. Talk about a kick in the bottom to get working on it.)
  • Regency under-everything: chemise, petticoat….
  • Regency dress – to be made out of the vintage sari I was going to use for the court dress.
  • Dance slippers…
  • Hair… um… something….
  • do I need new gloves???

Here are the fabrics I’m planning on. The sari has a large empty area as well as a wide panel of the gold design. The gold is very stiff. The plaid wool has a bit of texture to it. I think it will be comfy for him.
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Here is a better look at the wool.
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This all said, I am very, very new to the Regency era of clothing. I’ve worn poor examples of the dresses and have one sad mock-up from a decade ago. So, I’m starting from scratch here. I am open, very open, to a reading list whether it be articles, books, tutorials, what have you. Send them my way!!!

My biggest learning hurdles are the different shape in sleeve for my dress along with the whole construction and shaping of Dan’s coat plus his pants. Honestly, with his coat and waistcoat if someone were to specifically say ” make this”, it would help narrow my focus down while aiding my learning curve.