Sew Along – Work Bag (week6)

This week we are finishing our work bag by decorating with ruched ribbon, adding the ribbon handles and the wool needle pages for the cotton bag and adding a handle & draw for the silk bag.

Cotton Work Bag

To cut your wool needle pages, take the template from week 1 and trace this on a piece of paper. Trim the piece of paper down along the curved sides to the size and shape you like. Be sure to leave enough of the flat side for the fold to be a solid anchor. I trimmed about a half inch in from the edge for mine. This becomes the template for  your wool pages.

Fold the wool in half. Place your template on the fold. Mark around your template. Cut with pinking shears or a pinking machine. (Note – With a pinking machine, you will loose a tiny bit of the size.)

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Place the fold along the inside crease of the flap and front piece. With the pages open, sew through the fold and crease.  I suggest a set of stitches in the center and at each end.

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Here is a set of needle pages in place:

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Cut 2 12″ sections of ribbon and set them aside for the handles.

Box pleat the remaining ribbon in small box pleats (about a half inch.) You will need the pleated ribbon to be flexible because it will need to go around the curves easily. (See how my box pleats like to flop below.) You can pleat enough to go around the front flap of your bag. You may have enough to go around the back as well. (The original does not have this.)

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Sew through the box pleats and the very edge of the flap. I like to catch the top center of each box pleat and the bottom center as well.

Here is the flap trimmed in box pleats.

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For the handles, fold under each end about a quarter of an inch. Pin in place at the very edge of the pasteboard center. Sew around three sides (sides and bottom) going through the lining and catching the decorative fabric hidden inside.

Repeat with both handles. (front to front and back to back seems to work better. Though some originals have handles going front to back.)

Here is my finished cotton work bag. (You will notice I opted for self fabric handles as I somehow ended up a bit short on my length of ribbon. I suspect I used a bit for another project and forgot.)

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Silk Bag

The silk bag has just a few remaining steps.

Remember this channel that was made when we attached the lining and silk? We are simply going to run a silk ribbon or cord through it.

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For each side, cut between 12″ and 18″ depending on how long you want your handles to be.

I prefer to work a small hole in the base of the lining to access the channel.

 

Also use a bodkin or stiletto to work a hole in the top of the silk. You may want to do a fine button hole stitch around this hole.

I also use my bodkin to bring the ribbon/cord through the channel.

 

I anchor the ribbon/cord at the base of the channel. This could be done with a knot at each end or folding the end over.

 

Published in: on February 7, 2016 at 6:00 am  Leave a Comment  

A “I want that”

You know those times when you see an outfit in a photo, painting or illustration? This is one of those times. In this case, it is all Kitty Calash’s fault for mentioning The Yale Center for British Art in her Frivolous Friday post.

This ensemble in the center of Wilkie’s The Pedler instantly caught my attention. Often, when I see clothes, I envision how they would feel to wear them. This looks all too comfy to me.

I see a shorter red wool or linen skirt with what may be a deep hem/hem-backing or another shade of red as a trim or a tuck, a long sacque style bodice closing at a high waist with a belt,  from under the bodice hangs low a key and scissors, a kerchief with a border drapes around her neck, peeking out of the bodice/sacque is a white collar. As I know much less of this era, I am not quite sure what that white collar is. A chemisette?

For warmth, I would work the skirt/petti in wool and the bodice/sacque also in wool. For comfort in warmer weather, I would work the skirt in wool or linen with the sacque/bodice in something lighter. cotton? light linen?

The Pedler close up

(close-up) The Pedler, by Sir Davie Wilkie at The Yale Center for British Art.

Kneeling in the forefront, we have a back view of similarly tempting, comfy clothing.

We can see the side slit in her skirt. Her sacque style bodice is shorter, gathering in at a more natural location with the aid of the string/cord holding the blue cloth style apron in place. She has a smaller kerchief showing at her neck that almost appears to reach down the front of her, held under the blue cloth. I do like how that shade of blue is brought out by the golden color. (Lydia Jane, I think this is an outfit you will want to see.)

The Pedler close up

(close-up) The Pedler, by Sir Davie Wilkie at The Yale Center for British Art.

 

While visiting The Yale Center, be sure to look at First Class – The Meeting and Second Class – The Parting. Also, take a peek at Strange Faces. A story comes to mind for me. Besides that, she has a nice example of a turn over shawl and a bonnet.

 

Published in: on February 5, 2016 at 4:30 pm  Leave a Comment  

You must see this

I lack words for how much you must see this….

1746-1823 album with swatches, sketches, illustrations and notes.

 

***Please see Carolann’s note below in the comments about the published version of this.***

 

Published in: on February 5, 2016 at 1:00 am  Comments (4)  

Now Would be a Really Good Time

(Rescue furbaby needs meds)

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Published in: on February 3, 2016 at 7:00 am  Leave a Comment  

Sew Along – Work Bag (week5)

This week we are lining the bag and attaching the flap to the front. (only the cotton bag gets the flap)

Cotton Work Bag

Fold your lining fabric, right sides together, to roughly the right size for your work bag. Place the work bag on top of the fabric with at least a half inch from the top of the pasteboard. Mark around the edge of the fabric leaving enough space for a seam allowance.

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Cut out along the line you marked. (In my case, notice that the livingroom scissors are now not suited for any fabric after the wrapping of gifts.)2016-01-06-16.31.03-1.jpg.jpeg

If you wish to add pockets to your lining, do so now on the right sides.

With the right sides together, sew the curved edge of the lining fabrics together. Some may wish to do two rows of stitching for strength.

 

Fold and press about 1/2″ of the straight edge of the lining to the outside.

 

Slide the lining inside the work bag (right side out).

 

Line the fold of the lining up so it is just below the edge of the outer fabric and pasteboard. (1-2mm) Pin as needed to keep everything lined up.

 

With a blind stitch or whip stitch, attach the lining to the outer fabric and pasteboard.

Finished with the lining.

2016-01-11-17.22.45.jpg.jpeg

The front flap attaches simply with a whip stitch through the flap layers of fabric and the front panel of the bag. You are just going through the fabric, not through the pasteboard. (I find it easier to start in the middle, work to one side > back across > back to the middle.)

 

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Silk Work Bag

Fold your lining fabric, right sides together, to roughly the right size for your work bag. Place the work bag on top of the fabric about a half inch from the top. Mark around the bag on the fabric leaving enough space for a seam allowance.

Cut out along the line you marked.

Cut a slit in from the top about 2.5″

 

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If you wish to add pockets to your lining, do so now on the right sides.

With the right sides together, sew the curved edge of the lining fabrics together. Some may wish to do two rows of stitching for strength.

Slide the lining inside the work bag (right side out).

 

Line the fold of the lining up so it is just below the edge of the outer fabric and pasteboard. (1-2mm) Pin as needed to keep everything lined up.

With a blind stitch or whip stitch, attach the lining to the outer fabric and pasteboard.

Finished with the lining.

Published in: on February 1, 2016 at 6:00 am  Comments (3)  

GVHSA – Pin Ball – Resources

 

 

Articles and blogging about originals:

Articles and blogging on making pin balls:

 

Needlework ideas and patterns:

 

Needlework helpers

 

 

Published in: on January 29, 2016 at 6:00 am  Leave a Comment  

Examples of a Turn-Over Shawl

A nice example of a Turn-Over Shawl is on Ebay this week. I hope they keep the photos up for a good long while.

A “Turn-Over Shawl” is A shawl that when folded in a triangle, shows all four finished borders. This is done by attaching 2 borders on the right side and 2 on the wrong side.

The three-quarter back view shows the Vs of the two border pairs. These are set on opposite sides so when folded over, both sets of borders form their Vs. You can see the “right side” construction of the top V in one of the photos. This shawl is made with a center piece of black wool, 4 paisley type borders and black wool borders that are frayed. The right and wrong sides of the paisley type borders can be seen in the other two photos. A border such as this one could have been purchased at the time.

 

There is another one over on Etsy as well. This shawl is 58″ square, within the common size perimeters for the mid-century. Again we can see the borders set in pairs on opposite sides so they will make Vs when the shawl is folded. While this border is narrower than the Ebay shawl’s, the way it is folded and photographed really shows how dramatic and lovely the look can be. The seller includes a teaser photo of one corner showing the right and wrong sides of the border. The color thread clearly shows the construction details. (btw – Please do not dry clean an antique shawl as the seller suggest.)

I believe Genteel Arts just did a workshop on making a turn-over shawl.

Additional examples:

http://www.meg-andrews.com/item-sold-details/Norwich-Turnover-Shawl/8011

http://www.clevelandart.org/art/2012.447

https://www.augusta-auction.com/component/auctions/?view=lot&id=14956&auction_file_id=33

http://www.powerhousemuseum.com/collection/database/?irn=149561

http://www.antique-textiles.net/shawls/1820-1825-turnover.html

Published in: on January 25, 2016 at 6:50 am  Comments (2)  

Sew Along – Work Bag (week4)

This week we are attaching the balloony section we gauged last week to the covered paste board.

Cotton Work Bag

We are attaching the long section we gauged last week to two of the the covered pasteboards (the ones that are backed with the lining fabric.) The gauged fabric will be attached along the curved section of the pasteboard. The flat side will not have fabric attached.

2015-12-27-22.44.22-1.jpg.jpeg 2015-12-27-18.14.39-1.jpg.jpeg

We will attach the pasteboard and the gauged fabric right sides together with the decorative side of the pasteboard, using a whip stitch. Line up the center point you marked on one side of the gauged fabric with the bottom center of the pasteboard. Pin these points together. Line up the quarter points with just above the curve on the pasteboard. (I’ll get a better photo of that.)

On each end, fold a quarter inch of the gauged fabric under. Line this fold up with the top of the pasteboard curve where it meets the flat side. Pin both ends as well.  (sorry, I will try to get a photo of this.)

Using a whip stitch, attach the folds of the gauging to the pasteboard. Go through both the decorative and lining fabrics, but not the paste board.

2015-12-29-17.26.45.jpg.jpeg 2015-12-29-17.26.56.jpg.jpeg

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When one side is finished, it will look something like this. You may need to coax the gauged fabric to lay flat aligned with the pasteboard. (outside and inside shots.) (Yes, I make use of the salvege.) 2015-12-29-18.00.36.jpg.jpeg 2015-12-29-18.01.08-1.jpg.jpeg

Repeat the pinning and whip stitching process with the second covered pasteboard.

When finished, you will have two sorta horse shoes attached to the gauged fabric. Take some time to play around with how these fit together. It is a rather nifty combination. 2015-12-29-18.32.24-1.jpg.jpeg 2015-12-29-18.32.30.jpg.jpeg 2015-12-29-18.33.02-1.jpg.jpeg 2015-12-29-18.33.13-1.jpg.jpeg

Lay the workbag out flat to check your stitches.  2015-12-29-18.33.49-1.jpg.jpeg

You have completed this week’s step. (You can turn it right side out if you want.)

 

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Silk Work Bag

 

We are attaching the long section we gauged last week to two of the the covered pasteboards (the ones that are backed with the lining fabric.) The gauged fabric will be attached around the entire circle on each side.

2015-12-29-20.16.03-1.jpg.jpeg2015-12-27-21.15.13-1.jpg.jpeg

 

We will attach the pasteboard and the gauged fabric right sides together with the decorative side of the pasteboard, using a whip stitch. Mark each circle in quarters. (pencil on the inside lining is fine.)

With the first pasteboard –  Fold a quarter inch under on each end. Line these  up with the top point on the pasteboard. Pin. Line center point of the gauged fabric up with the bottom point on the pasteboard and pin. Do the same with the side quarter points. (Sorry for the lack of photo.)

Using a whip stitch, attach the folds of the gauging to the pasteboard. Go through both the decorative and lining fabrics, but not the paste board.

2015-12-29-20.25.57.jpg.jpeg 2015-12-29-20.27.09.jpg.jpeg

When one side is finished, it will look something like this. You may need to coax the gauged fabric to lay flat aligned with the pasteboard.2015-12-29-22.03.08.jpg.jpeg

Repeat the pinning and whip stitch with the other pasteboard side.

When finished, check your work. Once you turn this one right side out, it will be be difficult to turn it inside out again.

2015-12-29-22.02.37.jpg.jpeg 2015-12-29-22.02.32.jpg.jpeg

 

 

 

Published in: on January 24, 2016 at 6:00 am  Leave a Comment  

Snowed in?

Yesterday, some of the Sew Along ladies asked if they could have the next set of directions early so they could sew during the storm they are expecting this weekend.

This made me really wish I had thought ahead to write up a special set of “Snowed in” project directions. What a neat idea would that have been?

We do have a fun Work Bag Sew Along project we are in week 3 of. You are welcome to hop back to Week 1 of the Sew Along to keep your hands busy and warm inside.

I do have these FanU templates to offer. These projects can easily use what you have in the stash:

A boot Boot Template

A button keep, aka “balloon bag”  Keep Ornament

An additional Sea Shell shell temp

A Tri-lobed Needle-book Tri-Lobed Needlebook Lizs template thumbnail

Two Christmas Ornaments 2014 12014 2

Published in: on January 22, 2016 at 4:34 pm  Leave a Comment  

Sew Along – Work Bag (week4)

By special request due to the storm approaching the east coast, I am sharing this post early.

This week we are attaching the balloony section we gauged last week to the covered paste board.

Cotton Work Bag

We are attaching the long section we gauged last week to two of the the covered pasteboards (the ones that are backed with the lining fabric.) The gauged fabric will be attached along the curved section of the pasteboard. The flat side will not have fabric attached.

2015-12-27-22.44.22-1.jpg.jpeg 2015-12-27-18.14.39-1.jpg.jpeg

We will attach the pasteboard and the gauged fabric right sides together with the decorative side of the pasteboard, using a whip stitch. Line up the center point you marked on one side of the gauged fabric with the bottom center of the pasteboard. Pin these points together. Line up the quarter points with just above the curve on the pasteboard. (I’ll get a better photo of that.)

On each end, fold a quarter inch of the gauged fabric under. Line this fold up with the top of the pasteboard curve where it meets the flat side. Pin both ends as well.  (sorry, I will try to get a photo of this.)

Using a whip stitch, attach the folds of the gauging to the pasteboard. Go through both the decorative and lining fabrics, but not the paste board.

2015-12-29-17.26.45.jpg.jpeg 2015-12-29-17.26.56.jpg.jpeg

2015-12-29-18.34.07.jpg.jpeg

When one side is finished, it will look something like this. You may need to coax the gauged fabric to lay flat aligned with the pasteboard. (outside and inside shots.) (Yes, I make use of the salvege.) 2015-12-29-18.00.36.jpg.jpeg 2015-12-29-18.01.08-1.jpg.jpeg

Repeat the pinning and whip stitching process with the second covered pasteboard.

When finished, you will have two sorta horse shoes attached to the gauged fabric. Take some time to play around with how these fit together. It is a rather nifty combination. 2015-12-29-18.32.24-1.jpg.jpeg 2015-12-29-18.32.30.jpg.jpeg 2015-12-29-18.33.02-1.jpg.jpeg 2015-12-29-18.33.13-1.jpg.jpeg

Lay the workbag out flat to check your stitches.  2015-12-29-18.33.49-1.jpg.jpeg

You have completed this week’s step. (You can turn it right side out if you want.)

——————————————————————————————————————————-

Silk Work Bag

We are attaching the long section we gauged last week to two of the the covered pasteboards (the ones that are backed with the lining fabric.) The gauged fabric will be attached around the entire circle on each side.

2015-12-29-20.16.03-1.jpg.jpeg2015-12-27-21.15.13-1.jpg.jpeg

We will attach the pasteboard and the gauged fabric right sides together with the decorative side of the pasteboard, using a whip stitch. Mark each circle in quarters. (pencil on the inside lining is fine.)

With the first pasteboard –  Fold a quarter inch under on each end. Line these  up with the top point on the pasteboard. Pin. Line center point of the gauged fabric up with the bottom point on the pasteboard and pin. Do the same with the side quarter points. (Sorry for the lack of photo.)

Using a whip stitch, attach the folds of the gauging to the pasteboard. Go through both the decorative and lining fabrics, but not the paste board.

2015-12-29-20.25.57.jpg.jpeg 2015-12-29-20.27.09.jpg.jpeg

When one side is finished, it will look something like this. You may need to coax the gauged fabric to lay flat aligned with the pasteboard.2015-12-29-22.03.08.jpg.jpeg

Repeat the pinning and whip stitch with the other pasteboard side.

When finished, check your work. Once you turn this one right side out, it will be be difficult to turn it inside out again.

2015-12-29-22.02.37.jpg.jpeg 2015-12-29-22.02.32.jpg.jpeg

Published in: on January 22, 2016 at 9:59 am  Comments (2)  
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